Hairwork is a type of jewelry made from human hair. The term is also applied to the method of creating such jewelry. Hair jewelry is most closely associated with the Victorian era, when hairwork was extremely popular among people of all social classes, and museums and private collections have a wide range of antique Victorian pieces on display. The hairwork tradition, on the other hand, has survived to this day, albeit with fewer artisans practicing it.
Hair as a keepsake is a centuries-old tradition. People traded locks of hair as a token of affection in Ancient Greece and Rome, and the hair was sometimes wound around or otherwise integrated into jewelry to secure it. Warriors in some cultures took the plaits of their enemies after victorious battles, sometimes with the scalps attached, as a remembrance of the dead. Given the symbolic associations with hair in many cultures, it’s not surprising that hair keepsakes were eventually used to make jewelry.
Hairwork jewelry can be found in many parts of Europe dating back to the 17th century, and the practice really took off in the 18th century. The hair is woven or plaited around a solid base in a typical piece of hairwork. Hair can also be glued to a surface, ground into pigment, encased in glass, or twisted into intricate shapes. Hairwork jewelry often depicts natural scenes, such as flower sprays or landscapes, and hairwork can include hair from multiple people.
Bracelets, brooches, rings, and earrings are just a few examples of this type of jewelry. Hairwork mourning jewelry was sometimes given out as a status symbol at prominent society funerals, and many pieces of hairwork include precious metals or stones, especially when commissioned wealthy individuals. Women have traditionally commissioned hairwork pieces as a personal memento for lovers, family members, and fiancées.
Hairwork artisans can work with samples provided clients or create pieces using their own hair. People who want mourning or memory jewelry often want to use hair from the deceased person’s head so that the jewelry has a personal connection. Many artisans keep stock on hand that can be sold on request or used as inspiration for custom designs, and those who simply like the look of hairwork may be satisfied with pieces made from strangers’ hair.